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Jackson Ward’s restaurant scene helps spur city’s business growth

Jennifer Robinson | 3/7/2024, 6 p.m.
Richmond has long been a hub for black capitalism — especially in Jackson Ward, once referred to as the Harlem …

Brandi Battle recently opened her restaurant, The Hive, above, at the corner of Marshall
and Adams streets in Jackson Ward.

Brandi Battle recently opened her restaurant, The Hive, above, at the corner of Marshall and Adams streets in Jackson Ward.

Richmond has long been a hub for black capitalism — especially in Jackson Ward, once referred to as the Harlem of the South. According to a recent report from Yelp, the online publisher of crowd-sourced business reviews, black business openings in Richmond grew 66% in 2023. Yelp also found that black business openings in Richmond outpace the national black business opening rate of 24% and the national average of 20%.

Further establishing Richmond as a stronghold for black businesses, money management company NerdWallet ranks Richmond in the top 10 U.S. cities for black businesses to thrive. The company attributes Richmond’s healthy economy and the many established black businesses as success factors.

However, black-owned restauranteurs cite pride in Jackson Ward’s history and legacy of black entrepreneurship as a driving force.

“Jackson Ward is attractive to black business owners because of its historical significance as a center of African American culture,” says Shemicia Bowen, managing partner and co-founder of Richmond Black Restaurant Experience (RBRE), an organization dedicated to the support of Richmond’s black culinary scene to counter the economic disparity in the minority-owned business community.

Ms. Bowen sees black entrepreneurship as an opportunity for reclamation and relevance.

Her organization encourages Richmond residents and tourists to get a “taste” of the diverse culinary traditions and rich stories of the African Diaspora by dining at restaurants within RBRE’s local network.

“Black entrepreneurship is imperative to the economics of the region. It fills our soul with hope and promise. The Jackson Ward community has a sense of pride and empowerment for sustainable businesses in their neighborhood,” Ms. Bowen adds.

A newcomer to the Jackson Ward restaurant scene is The Hive Market and The Hive Bar and Grill, which opened in February in the former and well-known Saison restaurant space.

The Hive serves entrees such as Thai-barbecue lamb chops and Peruvian half chicken, along with signature cocktails such as The Bee’s Sting, made with Jack Daniels, ginger ale, spicy agave, and local honey.

“I am so honored to open a business in Jackson Ward. To join the lineup of Black-owned businesses in this historic neighborhood, past and present, makes me feel like a part of history. I am grateful for the opportunity to continue the work of my ancestors in this great community,” said owner Brandi Battle.

The high rates of black entrepreneurship in Richmond are no surprise to organizations such as the Richmond Chamber of Commerce, the Jackson Ward Foundation, BLK RVA, and the Metropolitan Business League, which provide resources to black business owners in Richmond.

Tameka Jefferson, Richmond Region Tourism Community Relations Manager and BLK RVA Lead, advises black business owners to be intentional about connecting with these organizations to expand their networks. She stresses that entrepreneurial success means tapping into these organizations for access to networking, education, promotion and capital.

“These businesses are an integral part of our history, present, and future, and make our region an exciting place to live and visit,” Ms. Jefferson said. “There’s a strong sense of community and an even more robust network here.”

That strong sense of community is why Curry’s Caribbean Restaurant and Bar opened in Jackson Ward. Shane Roberts-Thomas, the owner of Southern Kitchen, offered unused restaurant space she had acquired to Curry’s owner Sylvia Coppin-Smith. That was just the encouragement Ms. Coppin-Smith needed to leap into entrepreneurship. Ms. Roberts-Thomas also helped her navigate other complexities of opening a restaurant.

“I’m intrigued with the history of Jackson Ward,” said Ms. Coppin-Smith, who became a Richmond resident less than 20 years ago. “It was such a good offer for the space that my husband and I decided we had to take the risk. I’m glad we did it.”

Curry’s serves what Ms. Coppin-Smith describes as a Southern Caribbean fusion of Trinidadian, Guyanese, and Jamaican food like curry, roti, bake n’ saltfish, fried plantain, and jerk chicken. She says that without encouragement from Ms. Roberts-Thomas, she wouldn’t have even considered opening a restaurant.

For Brandon Jackson, owner and executive chef of Cheddar Jackson, the decision to open his cafe in Jackson Ward during the pandemic was more about the physical space he needed than Jackson Ward’s black entrepreneurship legacy.

He recognized that food is entertainment in Richmond and sought a particular aesthetic for his cafe to solidify the cafe’s brand.

However, his family taught him about his Jackson Ward roots and “Chitlin’ Circuit” stars such as Billie Holiday, B.B. King, Sam Cooke, Otis Redding, Ray Charles, and James Brown when choosing the site for Cheddar Jackson.

“I learned that my great-grandfather had a taxi service in Jackson Ward. He drove the Chitlin’ Circuit stars from the bus station to the former Eggelston Hotel, the Hippodrome Theater for their performances, and the various black-owned restaurants in Jackson Ward during segregation,” he says.

“I grew up in North Side, so I didn’t know much about Jackson Ward or my family’s history here.”

Mr. Jackson describes his restaurant as a low-volume shop focused on quality rather than quantity. Cheddar Jackson’s menu consists of soups and sandwiches such as the “Smoked Robinson” described as a “quiet storm” of country ham and smoked gouda— perhaps a nod to his great-grandfather and the Chitlin’ Circuit. His deep-dish pastries are currently some of the most popular menu items, and he plans to introduce savory puff pastries soon.

New restaurants continue to open in and around Jackson Ward. Its proximity to Downtown Richmond and the convention center provides the restaurant scene visitors

and tourists seek. The Lindsey Group, owners of Lillie Pearl, ML Steak, Buttermilk and Honey, and several other restaurants around the city, soon will host a ribbon-cutting near Jackson Ward for its new venture. Described as a social restaurant and lounge, The Foundation will serve small plates and craft cocktails with live entertainment.

To support local black-owned restaurants, RBRE offers an annual weeklong culinary journey to celebrate African-American heritage, culture, and flavors. This year’s events will be March 10 through March 17.